Adored Ecuador: April 26–May 14 Adventure
Shared
Summarizing a 17 day adventure in a few 100 words
ain't easy, especially when surprises were the daily
norm. Rather than write a tome here's a smattering
of insights and travel tips gathered while on the
Health Habitravels May Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands
adventure extraordinaire.
The Galapagos Islands are the volcanic Pacific archipelago
600 miles off Ecuador's coast that set the evolution
light bulb off in Charles Darwin's brain. Home to
blue footed boobies, flightless cormorants, marine
iguanas and 150 year land tortoises – all of
whom I've now had the pleasure of meeting! If you've
dreamt about visiting Galapagos, DO IT! These "Enchanted
Isles" are just one reason to visit Ecuador; a small
country that ranks among the top 17 most bio-diverse
countries worldwide. Our entrée to this stimulating
adventure was Ecuador's capital, Quito:
The
City: Stay at Hotel Patio Andaluz - www.hotelpatioandaluz.com
- a 4 star find in the revitalizing colonial part
of the city, walking distance to La Plaza de la Indepencia
and the city's famed churches, among them San Francisco
and La Compania de Jesus – with it's almost
blinding gold leaf interior. Prime time to explore,
Sundays, when locals are out in droves, wearing a
meld of clothes worn by Inca ancestors, spiced up
with imported knock-off Nikes and branded baseball
caps. Yes, the Global village thrives. Quito, elevation
9000 feet, means middle of the earth in the area's
ancient dialect. Atahualpa, the last Inca King, was
born nearby. Since Spanish Conquistadors executed
him and toppled the Inca Empire a weave of indigenous,
Spanish and North American culture has evolved under
Volcano Pichincha, which actively lords over Quito.
Things of note: Amazon jungle and Galapagos island
animals are the gargoyles on the outer buttresses
of San Francisco Basilica. Inside, a heart shaped
window frames what appears to be the small "Virgen
de Quito" in the distance. Drive up the hill to the
top of El Panecillo ("little bread") to get a gander
at and climb inside the gigantic
"Virgen" to a balcony affording a spectacular view
of sprawling old and new Quito. There are approximately
1.5 million living here, with traffic jams and exhaust
fumes as proof. Warning, vendors price local goods
high on El Panecillo. If possible, wait and shop at
markets in highland towns outside Quito. Below the
Virgen find Pims, which serves Ecuadorian and American
fare. Ubiquitous in Ecuador, popcorn (cangil)
with ceviche and in soup like crackers, Ahi –
similar to salsa, tree tomatoes, plantain, yucca,
and a favorite beverage, hot chocolate with cheese
melted into it. No, I wasn't curious enough to sample
it or the Cuy, guinea pig, which my travel companions
declared "delish." .Some good Quito dining spots,
L'Atitude where $20 buys you unlimited wine and Tapas,
La Choz and Theatrum. Got time? Visit Olga Fisch Folklore,
Guayasamin and Centro Cultural Metropolitano museums.
If, like me, you're prone to altitude (mountain) sickness,
brace yourself for a day of headaches and nausea.
Rest, relax, hydrate with water and coca tea and you'll
weather it. Seek medical advice if problems persist
as extreme cases of mountain sickness can actually
be fatal. And, remember, you're on the equator and,
close to the sun. Slather on the sun block daily regardless
of cloudy skies.
The
Jungle (Oriente): A 30 minute flight from
Quito lands you in Coca on the Napo River, a tributary
of the Amazon. Coca, originally named Puerto Francisco
de Orellana, after the first Spaniard to navigate
the length of the Amazon, transformed from sleepy
outpost to boom town with the discovery of black gold
(oil) in the 1970s. Oil fueled its growth, but eco-tourists
don't stay long. Instead they pile into motor boats
for two hour scenic river rides to several Amazon
basin eco-lodges. Our group went deeper into the wild
with a 2 ½ hour canoe ride to remote, 100%
Añangu community owned and operated Napo Wildlife
Reserve and Lodge in Yasuni National Park. (http://www.napowildlifecenter.com/
) Vermillion sunsets on Añangucocha lagoon.
Pewter caiman in the lagoon. Up creek spot giant Blue
Morpho butterflies – Locals view Morpho's as
evil, because if you give in to their beauty and try
to follow them you can get lost in the jungle and
die. Keep keen eyes as you paddle and you'll see an
occasional sloth, colonies of Howler, Squirrel and
Pigmy monkeys, and endemic Golden Tamrin and giant
river otters. In the lodge's common room bats and
geckos intrude. Malaria carrying mosquitoes like to
feed during cocktail hour, so slap on the DEET and
down those malaria meds. Guides, both college educated
and native Quechue's heap on information during daily
canoe and hiking excursions. Birds rule, with over
500 species recorded. If the jungle deities
allow you may view flocks of parrots feasting in the
wild on mineral rich clay at clay licks. My groups'
one opportunity fizzled when the show got rained out,
but those that saw the parrot spectacle raved (bird
list http://www.napowildlifecenter.com/birdlist.html).
One hike exposed the orderliness of this outwardly
wild eco-system. Along the trail army and leaf cutters
ants recycled jungle waste while our guide palmed
a cyanide secreting centipede for examination. One
night a riotous thunderstorm briefly broke the cycle
of hot humid days. Yes, it was like being in a sauna
much of the time—very cleansing. But what would
a visit to the rainforest be without rain! The lodge
provides knee high rubber boots for all hikes. Bring
along a rain poncho and quick-to-dry pants and long
sleeve shirts as insect bite protection. Local conservation
efforts, using some of the lodge profits, combat exploitation
of the area by oil companies and refineries. By staying
at Napo you'll contribute to this on going battle
as well as help this community sustain itself and
grow. Go Napo!
The
Islands: After 4 days in the jungle and a
night in Quito we flew to Galapagos and boarded our
16 passenger yacht, The Beluga. From our first hike
on North Seymor Island to our final sunrise pajama
panga ride on day 8, the islands cast their spell
on us. Imagine one day sunbathing on one of the most
gorgeous beaches in the world with seal lions and
splashing in and out of the calm turquoise ocean with
them, and another trekking over a lunar like landscape
of lava rock that extends for miles toward a mist
cloaked volcano, then happening on a green lagoon
graced by a flock of pink flamingos, perfecting their
communal mating dance—just like a chorus line!
Always wanted to see a Blue Footed Booby in the wild?
You'll see dozens on North Seymour and you'll need
to walk around Albatross nesting on trails. Frigate
birds, marine and land iguanas and other native species
abound, all with no fear of humans. In fact what's
most magical about being on the islands is that the
veil separating humans and animals evaporates. Snorkeling
you swim with sea turtles, sea lions and penguins,
just one more creature enjoying paradise. On land
iguanas give you nonchalant once-overs. 100 year old
land tortoises in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island
gazed at our camera wielding group nonplussed. Enchanted
Expeditions, owners of The Beluga, handled our 8 day
cruise as well as our full 17 day adventure. Being
on a private yacht rather than one of the 40-100 passenger
vessels allowed more flexibility for island excursions.
Plus we really made friends in our group, savoring
this one of a kind life changing adventure. Go to
these links to learn about Galapagos and how to contribute
to island conservation efforts, and even volunteer
your expertise and services, http://www.darwinfoundation.org/.
The
Highlands (Sierra): We reluctantly left Galapagos
and returned to the mainland for 4 days at Hacienda
Pinsaqui, built in 1790 - http://www.haciendapinsaqui.com/.
Pinsaqui and nearby Hacienda Cusin, both 4-star, are
the highly recommended lodgings in the region. Both
are conveniently located near the towns of Otavalo
and Cotacachi, which boast excellent markets and shops
- http://www.otavalo-ecuador.com/. 
Do bargain. You'll
find ponchos, weavings, Panama Hats which originated
in Ecuador NOT Panama, jewelry, embroidered goods,
and Shigras, agave woven bags unique to the area.
I bought a wall hanging directly from well known master-weaver
Jose Cotacachi. He demonstrates at his workshop in
Peguche, 2-1/2 miles from Otavalo. Peguche's also
home to musical groups. One musician left her Mother's
Day soccer game to build from scratch and then play
a pan flute for us. But the highlands are not just
about shopping. If you can handle hiking in thin air
(10-12 thousand feet) allot 3-5 hours to hike around
Laguna Culcocha. Take it slow because of the altitude
and to admire a wide variety of wild orchids. Saddle
up and horseback ride from the haciendas into the
countryside and through villages. Don't miss Condor
Park, www.parquecondor.org,
where you can view rescued falcons and hawks in flight
on a hill known as Pukara Alto. On our way back to
Quito we enjoyed informative exhibits about the equator
at Museo Solar Inti Nan. Then it was time to leave
and fly back to reality. The 17 days had raced by—we'd
all bonded. I gotta say—this was a truly fabulous
group of travel companions; such a mix, teens to seniors,
couples, singles, folks from Australia, Canada, the
Caribbean and the USA. Now we're all good friends
with thousands and photos to share and tons of amazing
memories in common.
I shall return! I plan to return to Galapagos
and Ecuador. If you're interested in coming
along for a 2009 or 2010 adventure—OR if you
have a group and want to go with or without me, let
me know. I do have connections—and can get you
great rates! I mean it. There's so much to explore
in Ecuador. How about an historic/scenic train ride
ending in the beautiful colonial city Cuenca. Spectacular
vistas line the Avenue of Volcanoes There are healing
getaways available at Papallacta Hot springs and Cloud
forest retreat centers. And the season's on Galapagos
offer a variety of wildlife behaviors. Having been
I know there's no bad time to visit this most amazing
place.
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