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And News on Mexican Hideaway with Sun, Surf and
Sacred Trails from the February 2006 Getaway
The
1960's film classic "Night of the Iguana," starring
Ava Gardner and Richard Taylor, put Puerto Vallarta,
Jalisco, Mexico on the exotic destination map. Forty
years later the fabled hideaway boasts pricey boutiques,
hi-rise hotels, a Samy's (the Mexican equivalent of
Cost Co) and heavy traffic. Vallarta's still beautiful,
and it's a wonderful place for shopping, dining and
sight seeing, with surrealistic sculptures showcased
on the oceanfront Maricon, and smooth tequila samples
available in tasting-room storefronts on cobble stoned
streets. But, if you're looking for a more affordable
Mexican sun and surf holiday, drive forty miles up
the coast to Rincon de Guayabitos and La Penita in
the state of Nayarit, on Jaltemba Bay. Rincon, which
means "corner" or "hideaway", is a favorite vacation
spot for Mexicans. It's also home for many north of
the border snow birds. Really, you can't swing a dead
Pelican on the beach without hitting at least three
Canadians. Having spent my first 8 years weathering
Canadian prairie winters I understand the mass migration.
The result: an upscale neighborhood in Rincon with
Moorish inspired mansions built by USA and Canadian
transplants. Come twilight the skyline formed by these
homes with their crowning cupolas will make you think
you're in Casa Blanca. Last month, along with my HHT
friends, I enjoyed a week's worth of exotic sunsets,
warm hospitality, easy beach access and frothy Marguerites
here. I was the lucky house guest at the family home
of this getaway's co-hostess, life coach Veronica
Raya of The Raya Group (www.RayaCoaching.com)
Other vacationers stayed with salt-of-the-earth hosts
Mona and Charlie at nearby Casa de Ensuenos, www.casadeensuenos.com.
High-season rates of $70.00 for a spacious beachfront
double, full breakfasts and sunset refreshments clue
you in - this B&B is a deal. Add morning Pilates
and yoga sessions on the rooftop terrace (my contribution
to a good thing) and you've got a prime venue for
intimate retreats. I mention this for other retreat
organizers. If your group outgrows this B&B there
are others and several well run hotels - just down
the beach. Be warned though, that part of the bay
is a lot more crowded and quite commercial, so give
Mona and Charley a call first, and please say hi!
From
here you can stroll south to tourist friendly restaurants
and shops, or drive or walk north to the fishing town
of La Penita for a taste of daily Mexican life. A
replica of the Aztec God of fishermen stands proud
on the main drag, just one example of the blend of
indigenous and Spanish culture prevalent in the area.
For further cultural contact be sure to attend the
colorful market, held every Thursday. Tourists and
locals comparison shop for arts, crafts, produces
and designer label knockoffs of bras, t-shirts and
baseball cap. There's a wide assortment of vendors,
from Mexican Punks and Hippies to clean-cut local
shop keepers and the real locals, Native Huichols.
Canadians may now call this home, and Spaniards claimed
it in the 1500s, but the Huichol (pronounced Weechol)
are the descendents of the true settlers - the Aztecs.
Huichol live in Sierra Madre mountain settlements,
which have been inhabited for at least ten thousand
years. The Huichol's name for themselves is the healers.
80% of the men are shaman, and as a community they
continue to practice the timeless healing rituals
and ceremonies of their ancestors. In recent years,
like many indigenous peoples, they've begun sharing
their ancient knowledge and practices with non-natives.
During
our week's holiday we didn't visit a Huichol settlement,
but we did hike in a sacred place actively utilized
by the Huichol, known by various names: "La Pila del
Rey", "el Santuario", "los petrolïfos" and "the Altavista
petroglyphs." We hired a taxi and drove half hour
up mountain roads to unmarked Altavista. This isn't
a regular stop for tourist busses - YET. I pray it
stays that way. Alters adorned with fresh candle drippings
and recent offerings attest to the fact that ceremonies
take place at this archaeological site. Along the
well maintained trail are abundant rocking carvings
of universal symbols like spirals and crosses. The
trail ends at an amazing natural amphitheater sculpted
by the eons of water flow. Storyboards along the way
in Spanish and English, tell history and legends of
this place. For further information try these links:
http://jaltembabay.com/Extras/Petroglyphs/Pila_del_Rey.html
and
http://jaltembabay.com/Extras/Petroglyphs/Narrative.html
For
me sitting quietly with a new friend, met via Health
Habitravels, in this ancient amphitheater was a high
point of my week long Nayarit getaway. If you visit
this part of the world, and are at all interested
in cultural heritage, take a few hours to explore
this bit of living history. Bring $3.50 to give the
caretaker. Other nature outings are readily available
and affordable in Rincon. You can sign up for tours
at most of the hotels, but if you've rented a car,
it's easy to venture out on your own. If you're a
wildlife lover then head a couple of hours scenic
drive north of Rincon and follow signs outside the
port town of San Blas, to La Tobara. There, board
pangas (small boats) and tour channels that thread
through mangroves. This is camera safari time, with
exotic birds, wild orchids, tropical fish, turtles
and crocodiles posing for close ups. We opted to include
time at the nature sanctuary. My advice, skip it,
as it is actually a rather sad zoo. Another fun excursion
that gets you close up to wild creatures is the $15.00
thrill of whale watching, or should I say whale chasing
in Jaltamba Bay. I've whale watched from a good sized
catamaran in the Santa Barbara Channel, but this day
we were in boats dwarfed by the whales. Being eye
and ear level to gray whales breeching and bellowing
does raise your heart rate. It was fun. Later that
afternoon, sunning on the beach, the whales showed
up again, and played very close to shore. It seems
that their old fears of being hunted by Captain Ahab
have faded, and these magnificent creatures are now
calm near humans, as if they know we revere them.
They
regularly migrate to these waters January through
March for mating and breeding, and feeding on the
plentiful fish. Not unlike the snow birds on the shore
- who also feast on fresh fish and seafood at the
town's many reasonable restaurants. One thing Guayabitos
has plenty of is great food. Throughout the week we
feasted, on guacamole, home made tortillas and salsa,
the fresh catch of the day, flan, and margaritas that
packed a punch. The fresh air, beach walks, and morning
mind-body sessions, evened the playing field as far
as calories in and calories out. For our last supper
we dined at a fairly new restaurant, Vista Guayabitos,
up on the hill, which true to its name has a fabulous
view of the bay. Colored lights from a tourist cruise
boat and the growing town of Rincon, glazed the waves.
As we celebrated the end of a pleasant week of sun
and surf it gave me pause to wonder - forty years
from now will Rincon and La Penita be upscale resorts
like Vallarta, with prices to match? If that's what's
in store, then, for those of you on a budget, seeking
a Mexican holiday that won't break the bank plan a
Rincon vacation. Here are some links to help you organize
your stay:
CULTURE, LODGINGS, RESTAURANTS, ACTIVITIES:
http://www.mexconnect.com/mex_/huichol/huicholindex.html
http://www.guayabitos.com.mx/english.html
http://jaltembabay.com/Properties/Guayabitos/rent_RdeG.html
http://www.casadeensuenos.com
http://members2.boardhost.com/jamiefromalta/
Adios - Tannis Kobrinsky
www.healthabitravels.com
