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Careyes Journey Notes
WHERE WAS I? In Costa Careyes, Mexico: or
to quote one of the group of women who were with me—"A
place as close to Nirvana as you can imagine."
Careyes
is a secluded enclave boasting several castles and
40 villas, located three hour's drive south of the
resort city of Puerto Vallarta, in the state of
Jalisco. Mariachi, a form of folk music
associated the world over with Mexican culture, originated
in southern Jalisco in the late 19th century. It grew
up with the revolution, using instruments introduced
to the New World by Spaniards, but the songs honored
Mexican revolutionaries who were opposed to Spanish
rule. If you frequent Mexican restaurants, Mariachis
dressed in charro suits have probably crooned these
lyrics to you..."Guadalajara, Guadalajara, Tu Tienes
el alma mas Mexicana..." which translates in English
to "Guadaljara, Guadaljara, You have the most Mexican
soul. Written by Jose (Pepe)Guizar, around 1937, it's
a prideful song dedicated to Jalisco's capital city.
We
were six days in Careyes, and by day three of the
most relaxing retreat in memory, the group had voted
unanimously to return next year, around the same time,
to the same place (www.elixirdecareyes.com)
If you're looking for the perfect spot to decompress
this is it! If you come along with us next year you'll
fly into Manzanillo, and drive 90 minutes up the coast.
There's a small, designed to be missed "Careyes" road
sign. According to founder, Gian Franco Brignone,
an innovative architect from Torino Italy, Careyes
is a "guarded secret only known by special people,"
and residents would like to keep it that way. But
that may change as Brignone sold his El Careyes hotel
to the Starwood chain, and KCRW membership drive's
recent sweepstakes offered an El Careyes Hotel vacation.
The hotel is lovely, but cannot compare to the villas.
We were in one up on the cliff, truly away from it
all. No phones, no internet, no TV, plenty of room
for each of us to have privacy, and no other people
around to disrupt the tranquility. It is a place where
there's enough serenity to allow hibernating souls
and spirits to wake up and never want to leave again.
Brignone
discovered this bit of heaven while flying over the
Costa Alegra (Happy Coast) in 1968. There was nothing
there, which allowed him to realize his vision of
a sophisticated, yet completely at ease, tropical
version of minimalist Italian resort town San Gimignano,
the way it was a half century ago. He set about building
his signature style castles and villas, which have
been showcased numerous times in Architectural Digest,
and were recently featured in Town and Country Travel.
The homes grow right out of the environment, utilizing
existing cactus as part of the design, and maximizing
exposure to nature as much as possible, while still
providing shelter, comfort and luxury. Two story high
Strangler figs (trunks of enormous snake like vines
that parasitize large, long lived trees in Central
and South America) support Palapa roofs where Geikos
chirp and nest. Balmy breezes waft through whimsical
Mediterranean and Moroccan inspired open air salons,
and over rooftop beds, where you can stretch out at
night and glimpse rings around the full moon. I did
that. Some of the group spent full nights on the outdoor
beds, listening to the nearby ocean waves, and waking
to sunrise flights of flocks of exotic birds. It was
like being a subject in a masterpiece where Rousseau
and Matisse had successfully collaborated—fanciful
and primal all at once. And the views—whether
you were gazing over the edge of the infinity pool
at the solitary luxury yacht anchored in the cove's
turquoise waters, just off the shore of the palm strewn
deserted beach below—or ogling the moon rise
above the commanding candelabras cacti for which our
villas is named—it was all perfectly executed.
All the villas, casistas and castles that jewel the
cliffs and hills are ripe colored: juicy melon, tropical
bird blue, tangy mango yellow. The beaches bleed into
jungles where crocodiles roam. Polo ponies take daily
runs along the shore, which keeps them ready for frequented
tournaments played by the International polo set at
the polo club, where games are regularly played during
the dry season.
Many
Europeans and Americans have settled in Careyes, with
the most common languages spoken being Italian, English
French and Spanish. The rich and famous come to be
away from it all. They're attracted to the tranquility,
and exclusivity, and the respect for nature. In addition
to being a human hide away, Careyes is a turtle sanctuary.
In fact Careyes means tortoise, and Costa Careyes
is the Turtle Coast. On private Teopa Beach the eggs
of four different species of sea turtles are guarded
and nurtured by scientists. July to November people
can view the turtles' lifecycle, from breeding to
nesting to hatching. The hatchlings are released on
the beach, and instinctively head to the Pacific.
Sadly only about 3% of them survive, but the work
done at the Teopa sanctuary is waging a worthy battle
against their extinction.
Brignone, believes in enjoying and celebrating life,
and his community's most popular holiday is Chinese
New Year. Last week the Year of the Monkey ended,
and we're now in the Year of the Rooster—when
confidence, independence and dramatic flair will pay
off for those who dare. Brirgnone dared to create
a charmed utopia, which offers both serenity and dramatic
flair. It is a place where you sink into the vibrant
beauty of the surroundings, and find the calm within,
and even if you're only there for a few days - out
of that calm comes a clearer sense of what really
matters, and how best to live a life of daring independence
and productivity.
The 2006 Careyes retreat will be a full week. I'll
announce the exact dates soon. There are ONLY 18 spaces
available. Cost: $1,800, DB OCC., with single occupancy
available upon request. Optional one-on-one life coaching
sessions with the vibrant Veronica Raya, a Professional
Life Coach from Moraga California, will be offered.
Learn more about Ms. Raya at www.RayaofLight.com.
