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New Mexico Journey Notes

"...weave for us a garment of brightness: May the warp be the light of the morning, May the weft be the red light of evening, May the fringes be the falling rain, may the border be the standing rainbow, thus weave for us a garment of brightness, that we may walk fittingly where the birds sing, that we may walk fittingly where the grass is green, O our Mother the Earth, O our Father the sky" --Tewa Indian chant

Returned from Health Habitravel's July 17-20th journey to New Mexico, where this Tewa prayer continues to be chanted, and it's easy to understand how this magnificent land inspired the words. All of us in the group fell under the spell of "The Land of Enchantment," and want to return for more exploration. Look for another Health Habitravels New Mexico Sojourn in the next two years, with possible visits to Chaco Canyon, Taos Pueblo, Ghost Ranch, and Ojo Caliente Spring. On this recent journey Santa Fe - "The City Different"- served as base camp. Having Stefanie Benenato, Ph.D. in Southwest history, as our guide enriched the culturally packed and diverse four days. If you're planning a New Mexico visit I recommend Stefanie. Contact her at stebeni@swguides.com. Here are highlights from the journey:

At Acoma Pueblo, the oldest continuously inhabited city in the U.S., known too as Sky City, Orlando, a native to the Pueblo, explained Matriarchal Keresen tribal structure, and emphasized that wisdom acquired by males in ceremonies in Kivas instilled in them the ethic "Never quit." The internal fortitude of the Southwest natives enabled them to keep their spiritual practices alive; even though they converted to Catholicism under Spanish rule. At San Esteban del Rey Mission, mixed in with Spanish colonial religious art are Keresen creation myth symbols and sacred colors, and to this day Acoma native clans perform ceremonial dances on their most sacred ground, which is inside the Spanish Mission. In Europe the patriarchal Christian church did this same thing, erecting churches and cathedrals atop the earth-based "pagan" religions Goddess sacred sites. Today in Europe pagans or Wicca followers gather at the old sacred sites on holy days, and Orlando explained that winter solstice you'll find his clan members performing ritual dances inside San Esteban Mission's walls, because this is the place his ancestors deemed most sacred. The Spanish did not succeed in taking away the ancient ways, because his people will "never quit." More on Acoma: www.puebloofacoma.org.

Artist and Southwest icon Georgia O'Keefe's winter home inhabits a hilltop outside of Abiquiu Village about an hour from Santa Fe. The O'Keefe Foundation maintains the simple adobe. Call 877-253-7463 months in advance to reserve if you wish to take the hour-long tour. Hollyhocks color the cotton wood tree dotted garden. Simplicity reigns in every room, bringing to life O'Keefe's tenant "Details are confusing. It is only by selection, by elimination, by emphasis, that we get at the real meaning of things." Although you only tour a courtyard and a couple of room, being in this liberated woman's dwelling place and studio is a sublime experience. Visit Santa Fe's O'Keefe Museum to view a large collection of her work. Docent tours daily 10:30 and 2:00 and free Fridays 5:00-9:00 pm

Also an hour from Santa Fe is Bandelier Park. Moderate hikes serve up huge swaths of blue sky, bold clouds, sculpted geological formations spewed forth over two million years ago by a volcano, Anasazi ruins, and cool cave dwellings accessible by ladder and etched by faint petroglyphs. You can climb into a ceremonial Kiva. We did, putting to use our Pilates, yoga and GYROKINESIS training, and escaping the high noon sun in ancient caves, which offer a view unchanged for centuries. We only stayed a couple of hours in the park, but you can backpack in and explore for a few days.

Post hike, we soaked at Ten Thousand Waves Spa, a Zen oasis in the high desert that nests in Santa Fe's hills. There are private and communal tubs available day and night, and 8 suites for overnight guests. We luxuriated under the stars in the Ichiban tub, and agreed "The Waves" would be a must visit on every Santa Fe trip. Details: www.tenthousandwaves.com.

I'm plotting a return to view ceremonial Pueblo dances, to listen to Thursday night story telling at Bandelier Park, to hobnob with Santa Fe artists on Friday eve's Canyon Road art crawl or at a Saturday breakfast, and to absorb more of the stark majesty of New Mexico.

 

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